The Taj, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri

Agra is a crazy place. From the moment I got off the train I was stalked and harassed left and right. People tried to scam and cheat me before I even got off the platform and I was pissed. I thought I would get away from that for a while, but I was wrong.

It’s also about 110 degrees during the day and 90 at night. Very dry, but a killer.

Once I finally got away from everyone, got my bearings and hopped a cab to the Taj area, I was in heaven. It was nothing but fellow backpackers, cheap rooms and some of the greatest views in all of India. I paid less then half of what I did in Mumbai for a great room (by Indian standards) and an amazing rooftop view of the Taj from our hotel’s bar.

After a quick shower, I ran up to the bar and started chatting with all my fellow backpackers. Everyone was on month 3 or 9 or even 25 of their India adventure. We all shared stories, planned meeting times, and talked about our home countries (Australia was the predominant homeland). Most of these guys were life long backpackers; working 6 to 18 months to finance the next couple of years of travel. There were couch surfers (check out couchsurfingprojet.com), hitch hikers, cyclers, and just general travel junkies of all kinds.

After a long night of food and drinks with this eclectic crew, I had the great idea to get up at 5am to beat the rush to the Taj. It was totally worth it. I was one of the only people in the park and got to see the sun raise over the Taj park. It was awesome. Pictures don’t do this justice, and the fact that it was constructed some 400 years ago is beyond comprehension. Its status as a world wonder is well deserved.

I then hopped over to have breakfast at the hotel and meet some of the other Backpackers (Mike and Dave from Perth). I had told them about Fatehpur Sikri (a little known Indian treasure) and they were all for it. A bunch of us crammed into a rickshaw and booked it down to the bus.

After a hair raising hour bus ride we found one of the coolest places none of us have never heard of. It was built in the Mughal Empire as a mint and palace in 1571. It is now a mosque and national land mark. If you're going to Agra, DO NOT skip this. It was much better then the Agra Fort and Red Fort. (More on that in a later post) This now lively trading center is surrounded by a fantastic wall that is visible from the temple. The bazaar is also one of the more interesting markets I've come across in my travels. The temple is huge and has some very elaborate architecture. They do make you remove your shoes prior to entering, and after a few hours of desert sun, the red stone grounds are unbearably hot. Socks are advised.

They were attempting to charge us 250 rupees to enter the palace, but after dropping 1000 rupees for the Taj and Agra fort, we were feeling stingy and decided to walk around the outside instead at the advice of a local. After we turned the corner from the guards, we realized that there was only a 5 foot stone wall standing between us and the palace garden and hopped the fence. Someone must have scene us because the next thing we hear is yelling and the sound of footprints. Fearing a stint in Indian Jail (or a hefty bribe) we took off running into the palace grounds. After hiding for several minutes, we though the coast was clear and decided to check the place out. (Mom will be so proud)

Avoiding the main gates and guard stations, we toured the entire grounds. It was pretty impressive, though we all agreed not 250 rupee impressive. To avoid the guards, we hopped back over the fence and took the long way around the palace walls (nothing sticks out more then three white guys over 6ft in a near tourist dead zone).

On our way to a great rooftop lunch overlooking the market, we ran into a necklaces vendor. He proceeded to grope me and force necklaces around my neck. After repeatedly telling him no (again, he spoke great English) I took the advice of an old well, traveled Vagabond from the night before; I put my hand on his shoulder, looked him right in the eye, and slowly told him "no thankyou." Taken aback by such an action, the man ran away cursing all Europeans and asking us "Why do you come to India?" And in a rare moment of Male telekinetic communication we yell "THE EXCHANGE RATE."

After a great meal and a very crowded bus ride back to Agra, I stopped by the Agra Fort. The exterior of the place is amazing, but I was slightly disappointed with the interior. The architecture was nothing too stunning and the grounds were well maintained, but lacked much plant and animal life. Other then its sure size, I was really unimpressed.

After a very long day, I returned to my hotel, grabbed a beer with some backpackers and hopped a train to Delhi.

Culture Shockers:
Indian Toilets: Still a shocker because every place I go, I see something different. Here is what I find to be the most extreme example. This was on a train to Agra in a high class AC Sleeper. Note: that is the tracks below you you’re seeing in the middle…

Arranged marriage: To hear about it in movies and read about it in books is one thing, but to meet someone that is doing it and thinks nothing of it is a real head trip.

VAGABONDERS: There’s a whole network of us backpackers that I never saw in Mumbai. To hear what other people have done and to have people that understand what you’re going through on something as interesting as a trip like this is pretty awesome. The lifestyle some of these people lead is nothing like anything I’ve been exposed to.